Due to constantly changing product offerings i have removed the previous options from online store, and keeping this section as basically contact me for which one thy heart desires – if i don’t have in stock i can usually get hold of pretty quickly. Kogel have basically stopped making 11t pulley wheels moving to slightly oversize 12t which work brilliantly but do require later gen derailleurs to fit.
(at this time i do have a couple of 11t full ceramic sets left in stock).
Also very popular with shimano is the 12/14 mid oversize – this gives you half the benefits of going to an oversize pulley wheel system, but without the faffing and expense of needing to change the cage. These are also available in the full ceramic bearing option – not cheap, but simply amazing.
Also relatively new is the Kolosses system – vs relatively flimsy carbon oversize cages this is really something, the pictures do not do this system justice. I have recently raided the cookie jar myself for a gold set for my dune gold Aspero!
*Note for Sram AXS users – apologies sram – i do love a lot of what you have done & do, however the road axs 12spd is alas flat out far less efficient due too small rings which = greater chain articulation, greater chain tension (smaller rings = higher chain tension so the articulations are taking place under greater load for the a given wattage), and of course you will be in a smaller cog for given gear inches which = more efficiency losses. Coupled with the fact that the axs chain is not in the same league as YBN / Dura Ace / Campy re efficiency, this exacerbates the issue. Have you wondered why the pro’s can get 54t AXS rings but you cant? I run a 54t on my road bikes and im not that strong, its simply more efficient. Many strong racers should absolutely be running larger rings vs a 48 or 50, and the 10t for road is frankly……..not very smart. However their wireless is brilliant and makes building aero road bikes so much easier, and so it has great market penetration – but make no mistake vs other systems, its eating some watts. If i was me and i had the budget i would ABSOLUTELY be running a kolosses or ceramic speed or other aftermarket axs compatible oversize pulley wheel system. The kolosses isn’t cheap of course, but its really something, and if purchasing with other ZFC goodies i then have some room to discount.
All jockey wheel purchases / bearing purchases i simply send an electronic invoice where you can pay via paypal / CC / Eft, just email me what they heart desires.
For all groovy options and pricing refer to importers page link below;
**For those looking for a brilliant 11t jockey wheel option that is much better than OEM and at a lower price point vs the very fancy kogel’s, i keep in stock HSC Carbon wheels for $119.90 which have very fast bearing that is easily maintained , or worst case – replaced without needing to replace the pulley wheel set – again simply email me to order* **double note – kogel jockey wheel bearings are also easily replaceable (except for the full ceramic but for road use they are basically indestructible and will outlast your bike)**
KOLOSSES – oversize pulley wheel system with stiffest cage for best oversize pulley shifting performance – available for sram AXS etap road, shimano R9100 & R8000 road, and Shimano RX800 and GRX series – special order only – $649 – check for availability for black, gold or red cages. Further info on below video link;
**Note due to possibly higher efficiency losses in AXS road 12spd system, KOLOSSES is definitely worth considering for avid races on AXS road (the short version of the concerns, verified by Jason smith of Ceramic speed testing, is that smaller rings – more chain tension and more articulation as well as smaller cogs and more articulation for any given gear inches, and also the efficiency data for the axs road chain has thus far not come out in same league as other known very fast chains such as YBN, shimano and campy chains).
What jockey wheel is best for you? What about Oversize Pulley Wheel Systems?
A large part of it depends on budget. OPWS generally cost a bit, and many (aside from kogel 12/14t for latest gen derailleurs) also require changing derailleur cage and faffing around with the spring, you need a new longer chain or to add links to existing chain, so it is more of a commitment but it is for the best low friction savings possible from pulley wheel systems. A key question to ask generally is how long am i planning to keep this bike? 3 to 5 years? is $600 over 3 to 5 years (200 to 120 per year investment) worth it? Do you love to add super cool personal touches to your bike so its not same as every 5th bike in your cycling group / race? Its an individual budget and weigh up decision.
It is important to note that the vast majority of the watts savings with OPWS come from less articulation of the chain. The bearings in OPWS are often extremely good – especially if going with a top brand – and will give some savings vs OEM, however most of the savings come from the chain needing to articulate (bend) less when going through the pulleys.
Kogel and HSC also have a top range of excellent upgrades if NFI is above budget or for MTB / CX riders. Top hybrid ceramic bearings and seals, and beautifully designed with immaculate performance. The bearings are also easily serviceable and so can be easily kept in mint condition, and again Kogel / HSC & ZFC support and backing you will find is second to none.
*A note re sram again for MTB riders – to keep drive train system friction low (they test the whole system to avoid just testing their chains, which are….slow….), their BB and pulley wheel bearings are often nicely low friction. Unfortunately this is mostly achieved by very light contact seal and bugger all lubricant. Last year i upgraded both of my mtb”s to axs eagle wireless. On both bikes the jockey wheels bearings seized after first wet ride. I have many mtb friends and customers in Adl, their xx1 / axs jockey wheels seized after first wet ride. If you don’t wax and therefore remove chain, you may not have noticed you are riding with 3 to 5w of jockey wheel friction losses after your first wet ride, waxers notice as find they cant turn jockey wheels when go to put chain back on. If you are on sram drive train keep a close eye on pulley wheels especially day after any wet ride – and if buggered, i have options from HSC eagle for 159.90 to Kogel 12/14 eagle to ceramic speed.
The home of low friction has you covered no matter your budget or low friction desires.
For fun here is a link re NFI:
And also link re a review on Tiso Full ceramic jockey wheels – these have a similar full ceramic bearing to NFI but one that has no shield whatsoever (Tiso are very good but I believe not quite as good as NFI. I have been testing Tiso myself for years and NFI – NFI is better – the bearings are noticeably smoother from new – I am confident the NFI bearings are at least one level higher Abec rating vs the Tiso – maybe 2 levels – (ie Abec 5 vs Abec 1 – I am working on finding out the specs). Even after a full CX season with no cleaning and being fully open unshielded bearings – whilst they did have an increase in friction vs new – they still tested better than just about all new jockey wheels! And of the new bearings that had lower efficiency, how would they test after a cx season vs the full ceramic? (*Note kogel do no t recommend the NFI for offroad use…… but just in case you get caught in some inclement weather – fear not you can just flush the bearings clean with water – they are extremely hard to damage).