Wax Instructions


Chain off, thread onto swisher tool, into wax, swish around when molten, hang to dry..


Here is the link to official Molten Speed Wax instructions (https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/waxing-your-chain)

However below is also the overview from Zero Friction Cycling’s perspective as a simple user / customer of Molten Speed Wax for years.

So what do I need to get started on waxing my training chains?

  • Small slow cooker – anything between 1.5 to 3L or even 3.5L is a perfect size for a bag of wax allowing chain to be fully submerged and easy to agitate. You can use bigger ones, you just might need two bags of wax in there at a time.
  • A swisher tool fashioned from coat hanger is great (MSW Swisher Here) to agitate chain in the wax
  • A place to hang your chain after removing from wax
  • An easy method for taking chains off and putting back on. You must use a type of master link as breaking and installing link pins is a recipe for disaster. We recommend either YBN master links as they are re-useable 5 times and are a great price, and are super strong and reliable, or wipperman connex links – they do not required tools to remove or install and  lasts the lifetime of the chain.

Once you have the above – you are ready. Chain off, thread onto swisher tool, into wax, swish around when molten, hang to dry, break wax bond on each link after dry, re-install chain.


It mostly depends on conditions – Dry and Molten Speed Wax will last up to 800km (but recommended to do earlier to be safe), wet conditions the chain should be wiped dry and put back into wax asap before any oxidisation occurs – just like after a wet ride with oil you would wipe chain and immediately re oil. (*note, you may be running a wet ride lubricant which does not need immediate attention after adverse conditions rides. But they are typically very high friction in the real world. Sure, the lubricant may stick to your chain, but so does most of the road grime spraying off your front tire which is now packed into all the hard working links).

I personally like to re-wax more often, and highly recommend to always err on the side of re-waxing more frequently vs pushing wax treatment lifespan.  Re-waxing by 300km is best, this keeps the chain & wax in its ultra low friction and wear zone, very little airborne dust penetrates into chain, and therefore very little contamination is brought into wax pot when re-wax. By re-waxing more frequently, you can re-wax 20 to 30 times per bag no problem (or use approx 8000km per bag as a guide re when to change to a fresh bag). Much field testing over the years with hundreds of customers has also demonstrated exceptional parts lifespan benefits yet again with immersive waxing more frequently vs pushing treatment lifespans. 


Multiple training chains. 



This is the absolute number one tip for anyone who is concerned about keeping up with re-waxing frequency. You are always going to need another chain, so pre-buying a chain costs no more. ZFC has many (and i mean MANY) avid races who train 400 to 600km a week – and they simply run two training chains -one for mon to fri, one for weekend, re-wax both at once on rest day. It is even more time efficient to re-wax multiple chains at once vs one chain at a time. For those doing more sane training km’s, running one chain one week and another chain for next week etc also takes pressure of staying on top of re-waxing. 

2 top quality chains like YBN on mspeedwax from new, and being re-waxed by every 300km (normal road conditions) will deliver around 30,000km of riding before need to worry about new chains. Depending on cassette (ie steel cassette), then its also 30,000km before needing to worry about that either. Within same period on drip lubes, many riders will have gone through around 6 chains and 3 to 6 cassettes for that many km’s of running, as well as much more significant wear into chain rings which may need replacing by around 20,000 to 30,000km on drip lubes depending on lube, maintenance and how well stay on top of chain wear mark, vs circa 60,000km for those on mspeedwax as above. 

Over not too long a time frame, the drive train running cost savings on mspeedwax vs the vast majority of drip lubes becomes substantial – especially if running higher tier level groupsets. Most cyclists have a limited budget to spend. Do you want to save for those cool new wheels or new bike, or have your eye on a groovy new set of glasses, helmet, kit, shoes, cycling holiday – or would you like those $ being spent just burning through chains, cassettes and chain rings? 

Remember – if immersive waxing is not for you, ZFC conducts the most exhaustive testing to find and stock the genuine best drip lubes as well. They will not match msw for day in day out low friction and wear, but the best latest generation drip lubes will deliver a vastly better performance vs what many LBS will push on you. Remember a lot of LBS do not feel a great incentive to reduce your drive train wear. But the top LBS you will find actively stocking the same products at ZFC as they run by the same customer service vision ZFC does – Look after the customer to the best of ones ability, and the customer will look after you. If your LBS actively stocks and pushes sales of lubes proven to have the fastest drive train wear rates, i would look for new LBS. The friction savings and drive train running cost savings (and maintenance time) between the best lubricant options vs average to poor options is simply enormous. 

There are two area’s of your bike you should invest a little bit of time and focus on getting right, and that is a top lube choice that is the right fit for how you want to maintain your drive train, and excellent tires. Don’t skimp on those two area’s and your bike will feel and ride like silk lightning, and in the case of the right lubricant, save you a very tidy sum of money over time to be spent on many fun things indeed.